Most of my friends ever questioned me, why getting a small parrot? Why not getting a bigger parrot like a Cockatoo or even Macaw?

Many with little knowledge on parrots, they tend to have this misconception that the Bigger the Better. Furthermore, when we talk about parrots, what most people can think of and relate with parrots are only large macaws and cockatoos.

To be frank, size doesn’t affect the quality of companionship and affection from the parrot. Small parrots share most common traits and characteristics as their larger relatives.

I personally feels that smaller is better. Small Parrots are easy to handle and manage. I don’t need very big space for their accommodations, flight and daily activities. Finally they won’t be as noisy compared to their larger relative, even if they do scream it’s not going to be like a Cockatoo or a Macaw loud and wall-penetrating scream!

By the way, what actually upset me was when I hear people mentioning that larger parrots have a better and higher resale value. It’s totally an unforgivable statement. First I do agree that larger parrots tends to be high priced, but I what I do not agree with is that many pick them home with an initial thought to resale it. I will consider this as an immoral investment. By doing so, it’s also not fair to the parrot itself.

Getting a parrot should be with an intention of seeking a companionship, able to be committed and flourish the parrot with endless love. Having a parrot is a life-long commitment!

Boredom is always the number one factor contributing to most parrot behavior problems. Providing parrots with lots of toys is one way to fight boredom. Like most parrot trainers and owners always like to say, “A busy bird is a happy bird!”

I totally agree with the saying. Just imagine you are trapped in your bedroom with nothing else to do, no other items around to keep you entertained. Definitely you will be bored stiff and want to get out. Parrots are like humans, they need mental stimulant like toys to keep them entertained.

One of the biggest complaints from parrot owners are that parrot toys and accessories are expensive and many feel that it’s not worth buying them. Well I totally agree that these toys are expensive, but toys are necessities. It’s worth investment to keep parrots busy and happy, it’s one solution to prevent behavior problems.

Seriously you don’t really need to buy fancy toys just to keep your parrot happy. You can make them out of any household items. It’s economical and parrots love them too!

In Singapore, it’s hard to get hold of any parrot toys in the local pet stores. Limited choice and pricey. Thus I usually ended up making my own parrot toys and parrot accessories. I’ve said early on that household items are can be ideal parrots toys. Items like wooden cork, empty paper towel roller and empty cereal boxes can be parrots’ shreddable toys; Items like cotton rope or twines can be used to make preening toys. Whereas colorful bottles caps and big buttons can be parrots’ foot toys.

Both of my angels, Kiki and Kermit love these household “toys”. They provide so much entertainment just like the fancy toys bought in the pet stores. Looking at them enjoying themselves so much, I’ve also feel happy and accomplished.

Few Tips for selecting household items as toys:

• Ensure items are make non-toxic materials.
• Ensure shreddable items to be either paper or non-toxic natural wood.
• Do check for sharp cutting ends (can be easily trimmed with a baby nail cutter) on the bottle caps before offering to your parrot.
• Ensure items are not too small (especially for buttons or beads) to be swallowed by the parrot.
• Wash any wooden or plastic items with light detergent and dry them before use.

With little bit research and time spent, you can turn any common household items into a fun and enjoyable parrot toys. Furthermore it gave a sense of satisfaction and accomplishment. Have fun!

Previously I wrote about ethoxyquin found on some of the commercial seed mixes that can posed dangers to parrots’ health. Although there are some commercial seed mixes are free from ethoxyquin, naturally preserved and truly organic, but they still have one thing in common that I hated most.

Sunflower Seeds! Well not the sunflower seeds that rose the hatred but just that commercial seed mixes are flooded with too many sunflower seeds. The picture of the big pack of sunflower seeds, are actually sunflower seeds extracted from 1.5kg of quality commercial seed mixes and I stored them in Zip-lock bags as treats for future training purposes.

Reasonably amount of sunflower seeds can be healthy in providing the required vitamin E and fatty acids that are essential to parrots. Anything that are excessive or too much can be unhealthy. We all know that parrots are programmed to love seeds especially SUNFLOWER seeds. Parrots just “worship” them.

Whenever sunflower seeds are abundant, parrots have the tendency to be engrossed, enjoying sunflower seeds and ignoring other healthy grains. In fact, they will be just too full (crop totally filled up by sunflower seeds) and lazy to try other foods. This can be one reason why most parrots are overweight or malnutrition. In the long run, this can be a potential health hazard.

In fact I’m planning to prepare my own seed mixes. This way I have to the option to restrict the amount of sunflower seeds or safflower seeds, creating a healthier seed mixes. It can be lots of work, but I think it’s worth investing the time and money. It can be cost effective in a way as I won’t have to throw away the excess sunflower seeds anymore. Furthermore, I won’t have to spend time extracting out the excess sunflower seeds.

Lately I’ve been receiving email asking for my opinion on which parrot is better and quiet, because they are impressed with the abilities these parrots can do, furthermore having a parrot is so entertaining and fun.

True, I do admit that parrots are really cute and fun companions. Many people only see the positive state of parrots but they failed to see the negative state of parrots. They failed to understand that parrots aren’t domestic pets like dogs or cats. Even parrots that are captive bred, hand-fed by humans still have their own wild instincts within their blood. There are time these cute fellows can go cranky or even turning to real devil which turned the whole house upside down.

It’s pretty sad whenever I read articles of parrots had been abandoned, re-homed or even sold away just because their owners don’t love them anymore. Just because they screamed, go cranky and totally out of control. It’s really heart-breaking.

Why do parrots have to stuck in these scenarios and going through these pains? In fact, the owners are to be blamed for bringing their parrots into these scenarios. Only if they had made serious considerations, understanding and accepting the possible problems of the parrots, these scenarios can be prevented.

Thus I decided to write this post to highlight the key considerations to take note to assist new and future parrot owners in making a wise decision rather than stranded in painful scenarios of abandoning, rehoming or selling the parrots away.

Accept these facts:

1. Noise
   Parrots are flock animals, they vocalize everyday. So don’t expect them to be as quiet as an aquarium fish. Some species vocalize a lot when the sun rise and set. Are you able to withstand with the extra noise in your household? Sorry to say this, there isn’t any quiet parrot in this globe. Seriously if you are still looking for one, get a stuff toy instead.
2. Mess
   Parrots are messy-eaters and their feathers and powder feathers (especially parrots like greys, cockatiels and cockatoos are dusty birds) contribute to the extra dust in your household. Extra mess means extra work in cleaning. Do mind the “little” extra mess in your household?
3. Time
   Since parrots are flock animals, they love attentions from their owners. Are you able to commit to 1-2 hours daily of quality time spent with your parrot? Are able to commit the extra hours for preparing meals for your parrot and the daily/weekly cleaning routines?
4. Space
   Macaws and other big parrots need very big cages. Even a smaller species like Senegal need at least 20 x 20 inch base size cage. Do have the extra space for your parrot?
5. Money
   Many tends to have a misconception that parrots are low maintenance pets. That’s totally untrue. Expenses on food, cages, toys, accessories and visit to the vet, all this need money and I guaranteed to you none of the items are cheap. A good and durable powder-coated or wrought iron cages can cost from 80-200SGD (Singapore Dollars) onwards and a visit to the vet can cost you from 70SGD onwards. Do plan and draft out your expenses. whether the extra hundred over dollars
6. Demanding
   Since parrots are flock animals, they love attentions from their owners. There are times even when you are busy they will call for your attention. Are you able to answer to their needs and calls?
7. Maturity*
   Baby parrots tends to be cute, well-behaved and most important “relatively quiet”. Sweet moments don’t always last forever. Behavior Problems like screaming and biting start to surface once parrot start to reach their sexual maturity at around 1-2 years old depending on species. Are you able to accept it when your parrot is no longer an angel but a devil?

Selecting the right species for your home:

Next getting the right species is definitely important too. Many people tend to fall in love by the affectionate and cuddliness of a cockatoo and the majestic appearance of a macaw, but they failed to understand that cockatoos and macaws are very noisy birds. They do scream and vocalize loudly throughout the day and you have to accept this. It’s already “pre-programmed” within the genes, you have to accept it. If not, best is look for other species.

There are other parrots that are labeled as noisy birds like Indian Ringnecks and Conures. Both species chatters a lot throughout the day, it’s their characteristic. Thus don’t expect this birds to be low in noise.

If noise can be a factor like me, I personally live in an apartments and the units are close built together thus loud noise can easily travel through the walls. Thus opted on “relatively quiet” species like lovebird and the Senegal Parrot. There are other “quieter” parrots like African Greys and Parrotlets. Do take note why I quoted the word quiet. As I mentioned earlier on, all parrot make noise there no such parrot in this world that is completely mute.

Why do people labeled Senegal Parrots and Greys as “quieter” parrots even they make noise? It’s because they rarely vocalize throughout the day (usually quiet like Kermit, my senegal parrot can be really quiet throughout the morning and afternoon without uttering a single beep) and they don’t really scream like macaws or cockatoos. Thus recommended for apartment dwellers. But do take note, the household environment do contribute to the noise level of the parrot. A noisy household will lead to a noisy parrot!

Final Words:

Having a parrot at household definitely will change your lifestyle completely, and parrots have longer lifespan than any other pets, this means you have to live with the current situation for the next 10 years or more. So asked yourself, are ready for the change?

So to conclude, take your time to do ample research, planning and careful considerations on the possible problems ahead. Taking these necessary steps can prevent you ending up scenarios of abandoning, re-homing and selling your parrot away.

Many people who have never own a parrot or have very little knowledge on parrots will misunderstand the concept of Wing Clipping. Some even mistook as deliberately clipping the wings with cloth pegs or any foreign object so that the parrot will not be able to fly!

This might sound funny, how could someone come out with such crazy senseless explanation? But it’s true, that crazy senseless explanation actually came from a friend of mine. He had great misunderstanding about the concept of wing clipping and rating it as an immoral act.

Misunderstandings happen because of ignorants or little knowledge in parrots. So overall, we can’t blame people for labelling wing clipping as an unmoral ethic.

Thus, starting this blog to share my parrot training experience, parrot tricks and stories of Kiki and Kermit are not only my sole objectives, but also as an informative channel to educate and share knowledge on parrots, correcting any misconceptions in the aviculture.

Back to our topic, so what’s actually wing clip?

The term “Wing Clipping” in aviculture doesn’t refer to clip the wings of the parrots with cloth pegs or whatever foreign objects. To be correct “Wing Clipping” is actually trimming the primary feathers also known as flight feathers trimming.

This led to another question, so what are flight feathers? What are the purpose of flight feathers?

I found a better answer to these questions on Wikipedia. Flight feathers are the long, stiff, asymmetrically shaped, but symmetrically paired feathers on the wings or tail of a bird; those on the wings are called remiges (singular remex) while those on the tail are called rectrices (singular rectrix). The purpose of flight feathers provide aids to lift and thrust during flight.

So to conclude trimming flight feathers is just a painless procedure and it shouldn’t cause any injuries or harm to the parrot at all. Trimming of flight feathers is of no different from any other grooming routines. It’s just like people visiting the barber to get a hair trim. Flight feathers do grow back over time just like human hairs. Flight feathers return back to its original length after each molt.

Back to the general question which most parrot owners always pondered about: To wing clipped or not to wing clipped?

Personally I feel that it’s a personal preference, up to each individual to decide after considering and weighing on the possible pros and cons of wing clipping.

Below are some of the pros and cons of wing clipping that I’ve identified:

Pros of Wing Clipping

• Easier manage and tame during trainings (That’s why Parrot Tricks Books or Video CDs always tell owners to wing clip their parrots).
• Ensure safety and prevent any accidents or injuries caused by household hazards. (e.g. Crashing into mirrors or windows / Fall into toilet bowl, pools or boiling water)
• Prevent escape.

Cons of Wing Clipping

• Overly dependable on owners (Less independent compared to a fully flight parrot).
• May result on “One Person Bird” behavior also known as Overly bond issues.
• May result in screaming behavior.
• Trigger biting behavior and other aggression (A full flighted parrot usually fly away if he encounters any dangers but parrots with restricted flight abilities will use biting as a replacement action of flying away).

I hope with the list of pros and cons will assist parrot owners in coming out with a wise decision on whether to wing clip or not to wing clip.

For me, I trimmed Kermit’s and Kiki’s flight feathers. The purpose is not to take away their flying abilities completely but restricting their capabilities to an acceptable distance and elevation. Kermit and Kiki are housed indoor and I lived in a high rise apartment. By doing so, I can prevent my parrots from fatal accidents caused by household hazards and ensuring the safety of my birds.

So you’ve decided to wing clip but how to wing clip your parrot?

Wing Clipping is conducted by trimming the first five to eight flight feathers on each wing. I wouldn’t recommend wing clipping your own parrot if you didn’t have any prior knowledge on how to identify the flight feathers and trimming them. The results of improper wing clip are fatal (e.g. Parrots won’t be able to glide and land safely / Injuries of the leg joints or impact on the keel bones due to crash landings).

Thus it’s always advisable to get someone experienced or knowledgeable like your own avian vet to show you.

I wonder any of the parrot owners owning african parrots like African Grey or Poicephalus like Senegal Parrot, notice an eccentric behavior that the parrots have when they are young. Perhaps owners that only taken in the parrot at the age of one or two might not have notice it before.

Usually young African Parrots in their juvenile age, tends to build up a habit of scratching vigorously on the cage floor or kicking madly (similar like what you see a hamster does, kicking off the bedding). It may sound a little abnormal for a parrot to behave in this manner. My Senegal Parrot had this behavior for quite sometime, he started since young (even when he’s a baby in the brooder, he did that almost everyday and make a mess with all the beddings) but until recently he stopped.

I’ve ever read about an article from a parrot book addressing the issue. The experienced trainer reviewed it as a normal behavior for all parrots from the African genus referring those like Greys and Poicephalus (Senegal Parrot, Red-bellied, Jardines), and these parrots will grown out of doing it. Generally the habit will fade off as they start to mature. However, the habit can be discouraged by placing in more toys to keep them busy.

Like what most people always say:

“A Busy Bird is a Happy Bird!”

Have you ever thought of why parrots love to wipe their beaks on their perches and other hard objects?

I happened to capture another a short clip of Kiki, my lovebird wiping her beak after a water bath earlier on. It’s really funny to see her doing it.

All parrots do this. It’s a normal behavior and a natural thing to do, usually happens after eating and bathing. Wiping their beaks on the perch will help them wipe off foreign objects (like food) that stick on their beaks. They also do that to wipe off excess water when their beaks are wet.

I had read before an article highlighting that wiping of beaks can be an indication to mark territory for some parrots. It usually happens when parrots are introduced to new faces and new bird in their area.

Never knew that such simple action of beak wiping can interpret so much meanings.

By the way, did you notice something at the end of the video clip, when Kermit, my Senegal Parrot in the background?

He doesn’t seem happy at all, because the food bowl on the play-stand belongs to Kermit. Furthermore, Kiki is happily rewarding herself with the premium seed mixes on the play-stand. You can’t blame him for giving the stare. Poor thing!

What a deliberately “hijacking” of the food bowl by Kiki. That’s really daring stint from her. However, indeed an adventure for a hot sunny afternoon!

Related Post:
Warmer Climate = Frequent Water Bath

Many of friends asked me how do I train Kiki and Kermit to be an ultimate performer? There’s no secret on how train them to be like one. Many parrot owners will suggest best to start training since young. Does that mean if I have a adult bird, the bird will never be an ultimate performer?

Many experienced trainers and even parrot books suggested to start off training from a young age. Frankly speaking, age is not the key issue to parrot training. Even an African Grey which is in its mid-20s is still learning new things. But it’s always good to start training early, as it’s one best method to prevent and eliminate behavioral problems.

When I got Kiki and Kermit, I started basic training as soon as they get settle down to the new environment. To date (based on 18th April 2008), Kiki had already mastered 14 parrot tricks and Kermit mastered 4 basic parrot tricks. That’s an achievement! Both of them are still learning new things, so I expect the figures to grow!

So start off quickly with some simple training like step-up command. This is the first basic command, that I introduced to my parrots when I first go them. Then from there, add-on with other basic tricks like Turn-A-Round. Always be consistent with your training and train daily.

It’s always good to allocate a specific time when to conduct training session. Both of my parrots have their own specific time for training, once in the morning and the other at the evening. I always try to allocate 2 training sessions per day, although the morning slots are usually optional. You can have training sessions as much as 3 per day of 10-15 minutes, but no longer that.

Conclusion, the golden words to the success in parrot training:

1. Start training early
2. Be consistent in training
3. Train daily
4. and Patience!

Good luck and happy training your parrots!

Related Posts:
Kermit’s First Basic Tricks Collection
Kermit’s Turn-A-Round Trick
Introducing Clicker Training
Clicker & Target Training for Kermit
Introducing Target Training
Kiki performing the Turn-A-Round Trick

I can strongly feel how much Kiki appreciates her roosting box that was erected for her two months ago. Basically it’s made out of a plastic container (widely available at any tupperware store, even a used ice-cream tub is suitable), with a cut-out at the top lid as entrance.

I’m planning constructing one for Kermit. Of course, this round it won’t be made of a plastic container, because of the vast different in physical size between Kiki and Kermit. Most probably, I will need to customize a roosting box that is with a dimension of 9-10inch square base and 15inch in height. The following dimension should be sufficient enough for Kermit to move without much limitation. More research has to be done, before commencing the DIY Roosting Box project.

Many might wonder: What’s the different between a roosting box and a nesting box? What’s the need of furnishing the cage with a roosting box?

The difference between a roosting box and a nesting box, is that the roosting box appears to have a bigger entrance. The bigger entrance will allow sufficient daytime within the roosting box, thus this will reduce the possibility of triggering breeding behavior of the parrots.

Next, there are so much benefits of having a roosting box. A roosting box provide a place for parrots where they can withdraw and hide whenever they feel threatened. This gives parrots a sense of security and does build up their confidence in a way. It’s a one-stop in providing shelter, warmth cozy spot for parrots during cold weather. It can be an ideal solution to “block off” disturbance and noise from the household environments, thus I guess it perfect way to ensure our parrots, doing in busy households, have uninterrupted sleep throughout the night.

I’ve ever come across with an article written by a well-known ornithologist indicating that providing a roosting box in the cage is one effective method in combating excessive vocalization. Parrots will not make any loud vocalization or scream excessively whenever they are inside the box. I totally agree with this fact. Kiki seems to be rather quiet most of the time.

Since there are so many advantages, why not let our feathered pals have a roosting box of their own. I believe they will gladly appreciate it, rather than politely rejecting it.

On my earlier post, I mentioned about Clicker and Target Training being introduced to Kermit, my Senegal Parrot. There’s a tremendous improvement in the training. Many have learned about Target Training from articles online, books from library and even a post titled “Introducing Target Training” written by me dated a few months back. But many still unaware and have little information about Clicker Training, some readers emailed me asking about details on Clicker Training.

Clicker Training is not something new in the animal behavior training culture, it has been established many years back. Currently now Clicker Training is commonly used in training domestically bred dogs, thus is never difficult to see pet dogs stores selling all sort different designs of clickers. I’ve got my clicker from the local pet dogs store too.

What is a clicker?
A clicker is actually a simple device that creates a unique distinct “click” sound and is easily recognized by all animals.

And What is Clicker Training?
Clicker Training is a process use to train animals (like dogs, birds, cats and even chickens) with the use of a conditioned reinforcer - the clicker. The conditioned reinforcer which is the clicker, which is able to mark the desirable behavior and rewarding it.

Clicker Training is actually based on both principles of Pavlovian Conditioning (also known as Classical Conditioning) and Operant Conditioning. Palvovian Conditioning (or Classical Conditioning) is a form of associative learning which means animal can learn to associate sound with food. For example in Clicker Training, we can teach our parrots to associate the clicker sound with treats. As for Operant Conditioning where our parrots have to perform a series of right behavior in order to receive treats.

In summary, based on the 2 theories, the clicker act as a stimulus bridge and a also a reinforcer which bridge the clicking sound as treats. Whenever the parrot perform the right behavior, the clicker can easily mark the desirable behavior at that very moment and rewarding it accordingly. This way letting the parrot understand that whenever it does the right behavior it gets treats.

Before we can effectively deploy clicker training on our parrots, they have to undergo a simple procedure called Clicker Conditioning. Clicker Conditioning allows our parrots to associate the click with a positive experience which is the treats.

Steps to conduct Clicker Conditioning:
When I tried introducing the clicker to Kermit, I did not hastily move into the step Clicker Conditioning. Instead I allow Kermit, my senegal parrot, to play with the clicker himself. This was to ensure that Kermit was not frightened by this “foreign” object, unfortunately Kermit was quite afraid of the striking blue clicker and refused to get any closer to the clicker.

I tried placing a few sunflower seeds around the clicker, this was to lure Kermit close the clicker. I allowed him to enjoy the treats but with close proximity to the clicker. After couple of minutes, Kermit was able to beak and try picking up the clicker on his own. The very first psychological obstruction was removed, but I foreseen another ahead which is the clicking sound from the clicker.

Basically I tried sound off the clicker. Bingo! I was right about my hunch. Kermit took off and so afraid of the clicking sound. I tried another by muffling the clicking sound by clicking the clicker under a sofa cushion. The clicking sound was much softer and less alarming. Kermit was able to accept the muffled but with a little trembling on his legs.

I had to consistently calm him down and talk to him and repeatedly introducing the clicking sound slowly. After couple of few sessions, Kermit was able to accept the clicking sound. This was when I’m really certain that I can go about moving into steps on clicker conditioning.

Basically moving into clicker conditioning is a breeze. It is fairly simple, basically just click and offer the treat immediately. Repeating the same sequence for about 2-3 session with 10-20 repetitions. Kermit was able to link the clicking sound with the treat immediately after the first session, thus I don’t see much difficulty.

My advise for introducing the clicker training, always exercise caution and eliminate all the possible fears in the parrot itself. By doing so will ensure that the parrot is not stress up and its safety is ensured, then it will be more willing to learn and accepting new things. It’s all about patience.

Related Posts:
Clicker & Target Training for Kermit
Introducing Target Training