Last Sunday after I posted the article titled “Are Punishments Accepted in Parrot Training?”, I received a few emails about their honest opinions on negative punishment.

Rick, one of my reader brought up some points. He indicated he also uses negative punishment in parrot training with his lovebird, and found that using punishment did eliminate unwanted behavior effectively and almost instantly. Furthermore, he indicated he had yet to see any behavior problem arise from his lovebird. He felt that since negative punishment seems to work out pretty well in his training routine why consider stopping this technique?

Well true, I do admit negative punishment can be effective at a stage and it does eliminate the unwanted behavior instantly. I saw the effectiveness when I conducted negative punishments on Kermit and Kiki before, but I also see other problems start to surface like increase in excessive vocalization (i.e Screaming Problem).

What we see are just the surface, a temporary remedy to the problem. In a long run, we are bound to see numbers of behavior problems arising. I will still insist don’t take the risk, try making all trainings positive will be ideal.

I’m sure many readers might be asking isn’t there any workaround for the negative punishment? There is a workaround which is to enforce the punishment without your presence. That means giving the punishment where your parrot cannot see you giving the punishment. By doing so, the parrot will link you up with all the hatred and fear caused by the punishment, thus this will not put the relationship and bond at risk.

In fact, I shared this technique on previous post labeled “Curb that Kermit Scream“, I highlighted on the steps how i carry out the workaround method in the post under section labeled “Method 2 - With Negative Reinforcement”.

Just to summarize, in the post I was trying to use negative punishment to reduce Kermit’s arising screaming problem. I tried a technique to enforce the punishment with a negative reinforcer without my presence, by doing so it will not put my relationship with Kermit at risk. In this technique, I use a desk bell (as Kermit is very afraid of the distinctive sound from the bell) as a negative reinforcer. Whenever Kermit start to scream, I will sound the bell from the other room. He will stop almost instantly, he understands that everytime he screams the bell will sound off. That’s the workaround I’m trying to emphasize.

Every technique come with pros and cons including this workaround. The benefits of this technique is that it remedy the problem instantly with a negative reinforcer without putting the relationship bond at risk, so you don’t have to worry that he will hate you for ringing the bell. In fact, he even didn’t know that you are the one ringing the bell. The disadvantage is that the technique can only be used in certain situations (e.g. you can’t be running back to your room and ring the bell when your parrot is already biting you). Next, using the technique in long run can result in a more fearful and less confident parrot.

The constant fear instilled in the parrot, will result in anxiety. Worst still, instead of improving the behavior problem this might lead to a screaming problem due to stress and anxiety.

Remember there’s no 100% fool proof method where you can remedy a problem almost immediately and instantly. The only best recommended by animal trainers and effective way to remedy a behavior problem permanently is to use proper positive techniques with time, effort, love and care, this way will bring you a more well behaved, lovable and a happy parrot!

Related Posts:
Are Punishments Accepted in Parrot Training?
Curb that Kermit Scream

Most of us including myself, regard our parrots as our kids. Like any other kids, they sometimes get nasty and cranky at times and many resorted to punishments to stop the unwanted or negative behaviors immediately.

Are these punishments accepted in parrot training? Are they really that effective?

I’ve identified some common punishments adopted my majority of owners (including myself in the past) whenever the parrots misbehaved:

1. Jail the parrot into a cage with no toys and isolate him whenever he/she misbehave.
2. Squirt water on his/her face.
3. Whenever the parrot misbehave (like biting your finger) while perching on your hand, giving him/her a strong firm shake also known as earthquake to stop the negative behavior.
4. Yelling back at the parrot.
5. Throwing things at the parrot.

Some owners might see effectiveness in the beginning but in actual fact it’s not going to help in the long run. Why is it so? Punishment is a form of negative reinforcement, and taking note that negative reinforcement is never recommended in parrot training.

No one likes to be punished, including ourselves we never like to be punished by others. Not only it may affect us physically, but the damage done emotionally can be difficult to remedy then after. Emotional damage are usually permanent, especially parrots are highly intelligent animals they can clear remember the negative punishment conducted on them, thus affecting the parrot and owner’s bond and relationship.

Below are some possible consequences of using punishment in the long run are:

1. Negative behavior can be accidentally reinforced.
2. Biting problems and aggressiveness.
3. Damage the bonding and the relationship between the parrot and the owner.
4. The parrot can become more fearful and less confident.

I hated myself in punishing Kermit and Kiki in the past, the negative behaviors did stop immediately, but I also felt that they were afraid of me and avoiding me after the punishment. It’s not a fantastic experience, and they totally ignore and avoiding me for the whole day, and I had to end up rebuilding the trust all over again the next day. From then I’ve stopped all negative punishment and tried using other positive method instead. Why putting the bond and the relationship at risk?

Many will asked if punishments are not accepted, what other method can be used to stop the negative behavior?

Simply ignore it or using distraction. These are two best methods to help reshaping and eliminating the negative behavior, but of course it requires sometime and consistency in executing these methods whenever a negative behavior arises.

So when to use them and at which situation? Well it’s definitely important to know which to use and at which situation. I’m not expecting you to ignore your parrot and endure the pain when he tries to bite or is biting you, that could be the silliest way that I doubt anyone will do. For example if the scenario is when your parrot tried to bite you when perching on your hand, try using the distraction method. Distract the your parrot with his/her favorite little toy (e.g. Little Bell, Balls, Chewable Wooden Toys). I will recommend a bell toys cause the sound catch his attention. Offer the toy to him or her whenever he/she tries to bite or even chewing at furnitures that he/she not suppose to. That’s one way you can stop the behavior positively. As for unwanted vocalization like screaming, ignoring it (not giving any eye contact) will be advisable. By doing so you will not accidentally reinforce the screaming problem.

These are some ways to help managing negative behavior positively in some situation. Always access the problem and try identify the possible cause of the problem before executing these methods.

Personally I’ve one great book to recommend for reading. I ever mentioned this book on my earlier post, but I guess it will be great to recommend the book again:

The Parrot Problem Solver by Barbara Heidenreich

Herbal Remedies have been becoming more and more popular this day. Partly because many see the effective of long term usage of herbal remedies, furthermore they are natural and do not result in any negative side effects after prolong usage.

Previously I’ve mentioned about Kermit’s screaming problem, till now I figuring out an effective solution to minimize the problem. I don’t really wish to see Kermit turning into a screamer. Through my daily observation of Kermit, I noticed there are a few possibilities that lead Kermit into screaming:

1. Over-Bonding Issue (Whenever I’m out of sight, he will scream!)
2. Calls from other bird/flocks (Kermit’s scream most of time are triggered due to Kiki’s high-pitched calls)
3. Fear & Stress (It’s probably difficult to remedy due to unknown factors leading to fear & stress)

Possibilities 1 and 2 can be remedied with day to day training over time to time, but as for fear and stress can be difficult to deal with as most the triggers are unknown.

I remembered at one occasion when Kermit was with me in the living room. I was reading a book and Kermit beside me playing with his toys and shredding paper boxes, then suddenly Kermit break into his notorious screams again and flapping here and there continuously. There were several occasions that this similar scenarios happened.

At that moment, I knew he’s afraid and in FEAR. Many times, I tried hard to think back that I’m actually doing and what could be the trigger to the scream. Unfortunately, there’s no lead and I totally have no idea what led him to be so afraid of. Possibly could be he just want to vent his frustration, like humans we do get moody too.

This led me to finding solution in dealing with emotional stress and fear, I’ve been researching for natural sedative or depressant that is suitable for the avians. Soon I came across with an article online indicating Chamomile Flower as an effective stress reliever with calm soothing effect. The good news is that it is natural and safe for birds. I’ve decided to give it a try on Kermit.

So how do I introduce the herbal remedy into Kermit’s body? Giving fresh chamomile flower as daily diet? Well getting fresh chamomile flower and getting them to eat the flower can be difficult and a daunting task. Instead I got Chamomile Tea Bags from the local supermarket, brewed and dilute them as the drinking water for Kermit.

How do I prepare?
1. One pack Chamomile Tea Bag with 1 Cup of boiling water (leave the tea bag for 3-5minutes).
2. Dilute the tea with 4 cup of water.
3. Once the mixture is cooled can be use as daily drinking water.
4. Chill/Refrigerate the leftover (Possible of keeping the tea for up to a week).

Direction of Use:
2-3 times weekly.

Kermit had tried the remedy for a week and I’ve yet to see the improvement. I do hope that the effects of Chamomile Flower can help Kermit in any way.

Post Related:
Curb that Kermit Scream

The first ever Formula 1 night race will be held in Singapore at the late quarter this year. The Formula 1 fever is rising, and everyone is excited!

Kiki is also looking forward for the race too, so I got her a new ride! It’s a purple race car, and Kiki loves it so much!

In fact it’s not really only a new “toy” for Kiki, and a prop for Kiki’s new trick. I’m planning to teach Kiki to “drive” a car, or should rephrase it as pulling the car!

Lately I haven’t manage to teach Kiki a new trick, partly because I’m running out of ideas of new tricks and she’s undergoing a molting for the past weeks and months. I wouldn’t want to stress her too much either.

With the new trick being introduced to her, I’m sure it will once again unleash her deep passion and enthusiasm in learning new things. I will say the trick is of not much difficulty to Kiki, as she had learn fetching, the retrieval trick.

The Car Pulling trick is of the similar concept in the retrieval trick, the only difference is the retrieval object is used as a pulley to car. Whenever Kiki is cued to fetch the retrieval object which is the red ring, the car will be pulled along during the fetching process. It’s gonna be fun and entertaining.

I’m looking forward to share the Youtube video with everyone real soon! Stay tune!

Many of friends asked me how do I train Kiki and Kermit to be an ultimate performer? There’s no secret on how train them to be like one. Many parrot owners will suggest best to start training since young. Does that mean if I have a adult bird, the bird will never be an ultimate performer?

Many experienced trainers and even parrot books suggested to start off training from a young age. Frankly speaking, age is not the key issue to parrot training. Even an African Grey which is in its mid-20s is still learning new things. But it’s always good to start training early, as it’s one best method to prevent and eliminate behavioral problems.

When I got Kiki and Kermit, I started basic training as soon as they get settle down to the new environment. To date (based on 18th April 2008), Kiki had already mastered 14 parrot tricks and Kermit mastered 4 basic parrot tricks. That’s an achievement! Both of them are still learning new things, so I expect the figures to grow!

So start off quickly with some simple training like step-up command. This is the first basic command, that I introduced to my parrots when I first go them. Then from there, add-on with other basic tricks like Turn-A-Round. Always be consistent with your training and train daily.

It’s always good to allocate a specific time when to conduct training session. Both of my parrots have their own specific time for training, once in the morning and the other at the evening. I always try to allocate 2 training sessions per day, although the morning slots are usually optional. You can have training sessions as much as 3 per day of 10-15 minutes, but no longer that.

Conclusion, the golden words to the success in parrot training:

1. Start training early
2. Be consistent in training
3. Train daily
4. and Patience!

Good luck and happy training your parrots!

Related Posts:
Kermit’s First Basic Tricks Collection
Kermit’s Turn-A-Round Trick
Introducing Clicker Training
Clicker & Target Training for Kermit
Introducing Target Training
Kiki performing the Turn-A-Round Trick

Kermit is now 5 months old now and it has been a difficult task in training him up. I’ve tried just using positive reinforcement training as soon as he was fully weaned, but the results weren’t that satisfying. Kermit is totally different from my talented lovebird, Kiki. I’m forced to adapt a different way of training from the usual method executed on Kiki.

I have great luck in training Kiki just only with the use of positive reinforcement training. Kiki can easily pick up the new tricks and behaviors through the training. Kiki is truly talented, a Smart Alec that I will use to describe her as.

Based on my daily observations on Kiki and Kermit during their training sessions, here are some of the findings of the 2 comparisons:

Kiki during a 15 minutes training session

• Better attention span
• Proactive
• More enthusiastic and easily excited
• Responsive to human vocal commands

Kermit during a 15 minutes training session

• Poorer attention span (Tends to looks elsewhere)
• Doesn’t seem to be proactive
• Not enthusiastic nor easily excited
• Less responsive to human vocal commands
• Less confident

You can see the vast differences among the two species. It’s never surprise to see Kiki mastering a new behavior or tricks in less than 10 minutes. She’s more of the hyperactive and more enthusiastic participant as compared to Kermit. Kermit has a much shorter attention span as compared to Kiki.

I’m able get Kiki to perform all the behaviors and tricks that she learned over 20- 30 minutes continuously, and after 30 minutes (although not recommended as it can easily possible leads to fustration if the parrot failed to perform the correct act) she still has the attention on me. As for Kermit, his mind start to wander of after 8-10minutes. I will say it’s definitely difficult to maintain the attention from a Senegal Parrot as compared to a African Lovebird. Furthermore, the slightest sound or motion of an object (including a fly flying around the vicinity) will instil fear in Kermit, diverting his attention and disrupting the whole training session.

There are a few factors that contributed to the unacceptable results in Kermit’s Training session. I have to admit the failure of shaping the new behavior, partly the fault lies on me. At certain part of the training, when Kermit suddenly performed the right behavior, I wasn’t able to reinforce and treat immediately at that moment.

Next, there’s also disadvantages of using positive reinforcement training with treats, you have to offer the treat immediately when the parrot performed the right behavior at that very moment. By doing so, the parrot will then understand and link the right behavior with the treat. Thus the parrot will know that everytime he/she performed that behavior he/she gets the treats. But many times during Kermit’s training session, I committed the mistake of not offering the treat immediately at the split second when the right behavior is performed. Any time later than that, Kermit will not be able to link the right behavior with the treat. It’s definitely one stressful task!

Two weeks ago, I started introducing Clicker and Target Training along with positive reinforcement. The results were really amazing, and Kermit was able to perform the his first trick, the Turn-a-Round trick after the 3rd day of Click and Target Training. Kermit had learned to associate the clicking sound with food. With this great advantage, I’m able to sound the clicker at the very right moment when Kermit performed the behavior that I want him to do.

I’m truly amazed, the clicker training does enhance the training experience. I’ve yet to explore more on the clicker training and unveil the power of clicker training for new tricks and behavior training. Hopefully I will be able to get my brother to capture a full motion clip on Kermit performing his first ever trick, the Turn-a-Round trick. So do stay tune!